Well, its nearly here, in four days time boats will be heading out for the first commercial catches of fresh Halibut of the new season.
This season, the International Pacific Halibut Commission has recommended a reduction on catch of 18% to stimulate growth of stocks in one or two areas which have seen a decline, put in place measures to decrease accidental by-catch of fish on other fisheries not targeted at Halibut, and announced a stable or slightly increased biomass for the whole of the west coast.
What does this mean for us?
Well, it appears that stocks are healthy and maintaining in most areas, the fishery remains sustainably managed, but as ever don`t expect any price decreases.In fact, in recent years halibut has rocketed from its previous status as a staple into the luxury bracket.
However, I believe that this status is fully deserved for one of the most succulent white fish offerings the oceans give us, and with fishing techniques and handling nowadays providing better quality than ever before, Halibut will continue to take the culinary high ground in restaurants and markets, and move ever more away from being a fish and chips staple.
So, sustainable, not cheap, but readily available and delicious.What qualities should one look for in a chunk of prime Halibut, and how should it best be cooked?
Firstly, avoid fillets which have a chalky white appearance, with sometimes an oily sheen and/or separation of the flakes.This is an indicator of a stress reaction in the fish when it is landed (called 'chalkiness') and will result in mushy texture.Also avoid any fish with yellowing, as this indicates oxidation, which means that the fillets have been off the bone for too long.There should be no odour at all to the fillet (ask your fishmonger if you can do the sniff test!), and there ideally should be a translucent appearance.
Now to cooking!
The biggest mistake in any seafood cookery is overcooking, and Halibut is a great example of this.One minute over and the fish will be dry, two over and it will be like eating cotton wool.So until you are very confident of cooking times, use the press test to check your fish.Push down gently on the fillet with your thumb, and you should feel some springiness.No spring and the fish is overdone, flabby feel means it needs another minute.
At home, we use the pan roast technique often, which always works out well.Firstly we sear the seasoned meat side of the fish in a very hot skillet brushed with oil for about three minutes, or until the fish releases from the pan.(It is important not to try to move the fish around until it releases or it will stick, just place it and leave it, occasionally testing an edge).Then we flip it, add our flavouring and put the skillet in a 400 degree oven for another 5 minutes (for a 1.5 inch thick fillet).When you remove from the oven, test for doneness and then remove from the skillet as this will help to prevent it from continuing to cook whilst you assemble your meal.
Often we serve this very simply with a gremolata of very finely chopped orange zest, garlic and parsley, and sauce of deglazed pan juices with a little Orange juice deglazed, a grate of ginger and a dash of soy.
When cooked to perfection, it will be moist and almost translucent in the centre, but you should be able to tease off those big succulent flakes with a fork and very little pressure.
I will be making a dash back from Victoria on Monday with the very first day boat caught Halibut of the season, so follow my progress on twitter (@thecodfathers) and find out if I make it to market in time for closing!
